I love shirtwaist dresses. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: I love ’em. Despite not making very many of them, when looking at fabric I’ll often judge it by thinking “how would this look as a shirtwaist dress?”. I have several fabrics in my stash that would, in fact, look great (if I had thought to buy enough yardage) – but I have only ever made two. Finally my ass was kicked into gear when Mary issued her “Autumn/Spring of 1000 Shirtdresses” challenge.
So may I present: my first McCalls 6696.
Yes, I am wearing high heeled jellies! Hello, 90’s
This dress was, largely, really fun to make. Unfortunately the polka dots were slightly off grain (either than or I accidentally stretched the fabric during the washing and drying process) which made the cutting slightly more of a challenge, but otherwise everything went together really well.
This is a “proper” shirtwaist dress, with a separate button placket and collar stand. It also has a separate waist band with belt loops and a wide pleated skirt – and separate pattern pieces for different bust cups, which is good news for ladies who are more heavily endowed (sigh. One day I won’t be jealous)
Now, while I haven’t been blogging that frequently, I have been sewing. This dress was finished a few weeks ago and now that I want to write about it, I can’t remember any of the specific details…. I think I cut the size 14 (C cup) and had to slightly move the darts and narrow the shoulders; then I sewed the size seams with a 10mm seam allowance rather than 15mm. I took 3cm out of the center back bodice (not the yoke) to reduce some poofiness, as my fabric has a reasonable amount of body.
I also lengthened it (so the skirt is now 70cm long) – I’m very glad I noticed Mary’s post saying that the button placket attached after the skirt is hemmed, or I would have forgotten to lengthen it as well! As I’ve mentioned before, 70cm is the perfect length for me before hemming, so that skirts hit me just at or under the knee (for reference I’m 178cm tall and have, err, ugly knees).
The pattern calls for a lot of handstitching, which I like to avoid unless necessary – so everything is topstitched down. And I admit, my top-stitching is not the neatest. I also need to write down what settings I use to top-stitch so everything matches. The yoke is “bagged” using the burrito technique, and I follow Andrea’s/Four Square Walls’ tutorial for the collar. The hem is a machine blind hem (<3)
Unfortunately I must have stretched out the waistband before I attached it to the button placket, so it’s not nice and even at the center front – usually I’d cover that up with a belt but I don’t have any narrow enough for the belt loops! I’m actually in desperate need of some new belts, but given that I don’t go shopping any more I have no idea where to buy any.
The one thing I don’t like about the dress/pattern is that the armscye’s are too low – I’m wondering if the pattern was drafted to be sleeveless, then the optional sleeves added in. As I understand it, the armscye should be lower for sleeveless dresses (or you’ll feel like your arm is being strangled), and higher/closer to the body/underarm with sleeves. Correct me if I’m wrong! As it is, it gets a bit too tight across the chest when I cross my arms.
It may well just be how it fits ME but I’ve seen a few other people mention it as well.
The fabric is a mid-weight (but loosely woven) chambray, and it’s lovely to wear. The buttons are plain white ones from a local craft shop. I had forgotten how much I like separate waist bands to give more definition to the waist (even without a belt). The pleated skirt is lovely and full (I had to cut it on on the flat) and pockets are always handy. I also love almost every version I can see on google images, particularly the solid coloured ones. Is this a good enough excuse to buy MORE of the $12 linen from The Fabric Store??
Have you got any Shirtwaist Plans? I have some cotton in the washing machine that is destined to be another 6696, and I’m keen to try and make one with a faced campstyle collar rather than the collar stand too – similar to the one I drafted earlier this year.
Details
Pattern: McCalls 6696
Fabric: Polka dot chambray from Evans of Masterton, $47
Notions: White buttons, $5. Interfacing, $5. Thread, stash
Total: $57
In other news, it’s only 2 weeks until we leave!! Wheee. We’re planning on doing a short road trip around the South Island before moving properly to Golden Bay so I’ll try to get some nice photos. In the meantime I’ll leave you with this photo, taken just before I cleaned my iron with some of the most foul smelling cleaning product I’ve ever used. The apron was a “wedding shower” gift from my auntie, made from a pair of my grandmother’s old curtains.
Oh, I like that dress. As I always like chambray dresses a lot! It’s looking very comfy.
Your post is the second post about this pattern in my feed today and I just started wondering if I should try it as well. But then I read “a lot of hand stitching”… No way! π
Does it help if I tell you I did almost NO handstitching in this dress? The only place I did it was on the waistband (I could have done by machine but I’m realising handstitching is nicer than wonky stitching in the ditch)
Sophie-Lee recently posted…Time not waisted: McCalls 6696
I have the same pattern, but haven’t sewn it yet. After seeing your beautiful dress, I think it should be my next project! I love that fabric.
Yes, do! I highly recommend it
Sophie-Lee recently posted…Time not waisted: McCalls 6696
So pretty! I have made two of this pattern, but I need to go back and work on the sizing and fit because I feel like I’m swimming in both of them. Every time I see someone post another version I want to make another though!
Alice recently posted…a blue dress
Yeah I really like your nautical dress! Before changing much of the fit I would try taking out some of the gathering, and trying to raise the armscye (just compare it to one that fits you well), that might help with a lot of it
Sophie-Lee recently posted…Time not waisted: McCalls 6696
Great fabric choice, I love flowy fabric on shirtdresses so it doesnt look too stiff. Shirt dresses are always on my list but usually shy away from it because of all the construction.
Lola recently posted…Must be jelly, cause Ginger donβt shake
Yeah I think that’s why it took me so log to make this as well – all the extra pieces to cut and trace. But once you have everything prepped, I quite like the methodical process.
Sophie-Lee recently posted…Time not waisted: McCalls 6696
I love the dress! I know, deep down, that I am way to lazy to ever sew a shirtdress (plus, even though they look adorable on everyone, I don’t really need to be that dressed up for my job and sitting at my desk all day in a woven fabric makes me claustrophobic), but I just love seeing them on everyone else.
It is interesting how dressed up I feel wearing it – it’s not like it’s a FANCY dress but I tend to feel quite dressy wearing this one. Not quite the same in my green shirtwaist dress, which may because it’s so much drapier?
There are a few patterns/styles that I love on everyone else, but really aren’t my style and I have to remind myself not to try and make them anyway!
Sophie-Lee recently posted…Time not waisted: McCalls 6696
I love seeing shirt-dresses on everyone but I’m convinced I would look like I was wearing a uniform (can you tell I was forced to wear uniforms in school). π That fabric is a great match with the dress- polka dots for the win! Completing all the work that goes into a dress like that makes you totally bada$$, btw. π
Haha. My uniform at school was a kilt and blouse, so it’s taken me a while to want to make a blouse (and I’ll never wear a kilt again, except for when I dressed up as baby spice once)
Sophie-Lee recently posted…Time not waisted: McCalls 6696
Shirtdresses make me happy, too. I loves them! π (And may have plans for a few with the current Spring of 1000 shirt dresses sewalong….)
I like the waist definition on this one, very nice.
Kat H recently posted…Itβs all about the practicality
Yus!! I look forward to seeing your versions
Sophie-Lee recently posted…Time not waisted: McCalls 6696
That is so cute! I actually love hand sewing so I am excited to make this pattern.
For belts, I recommend eBay. I get a lot of mine there & they tend to be both cheap and cute.
LadyxBec recently posted…The power of ponte
I must admit, I’m coming around to hand sewing. I used to HATE it, but I’ve realised that sometimes it gives you a nicer finish in much less time than the hassle of trying to stitch-in-the ditch, for example.
Sophie-Lee recently posted…Time not waisted: McCalls 6696
Great dress -with a lot of detail! I’m impressed that this is only one of the dresses you made this month for frocktober. I too suffer from ugly knees
and like my dresses to hit at the same spot you do. Only I’m currently making a La Sylphide and the skirt at this length is looking a bit dowdy. Do I dare bare my knees?!
This dress is such a great shape on you.
I really like the separate waistband. I guess you could always wear a belt over the belt loops, but I guess after putting them in you want to use them.
I already have a shirtwaist dress pattern, but you’ve got me thinking I need to another
Vanessa recently posted…::Sewing::FO:: Special Dress for a Special Day
Oh, I love this dress! That fabric is really cute.
Nicole recently posted…on choosing the light
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Nice dress. You wear it well. First time reading your blog. I like what I see.
Happy New Year
Josie